"Perfect match of mast-sail" ?? You were being facetious, I presume...
A sleeve would improve the mast - sail match IMHO. It's worth a try. You can use the existing boom sleeve kit as the top and boom are the same diameter dimensions.
Or make your own from a broken top. I've cut a 3/4" slice...
L84dinr- That's definately custom. I don't see where the glass in the joint helps much, except to hold the epoxy in place? But it doesn't hurt. The mast tube definately got extra wraps of very heavy stuff, looks bombproof to me. If it's not alot more than 130 lbs dry, then raceable, arguably...
To tell the truth....I have been known to "swear at" myself (and my boat, my tiller/stick, my mainsheet wrapped around my legs......and even at a few Gods known only to Roman's, Greeks, and maybe Inca's).
Case 47 is not Brody's case, (which resulted in a Rule 69 penalty) and involved Boarding, etc.
Case 47 involved just an erroneous "starboard" call, no swearing at all. It's worth a read.
ISAF Case book:
http://www.sailing.org/tools/documents/CaseBook20092012with2010changes-[8229].pdf
Al
BTW, I was a bit unnerved at first by being yelled at (with swearing)
Actually, this is a fairly common tactic BUT is likely a violation of Rule 2 (Fair Sailing). Appeals Case 47 specifically addresses this. In that case, a fairly extreme example, an experienced sailor unfairly influenced a...
Yeah, use a shop light for a few days to dry, when you get to it.
I wouldn't worry too much about the cosmetic effect/$ value effect on an '80 ish boat. Sail it hard, but don't put it away wet ;-)
Make the patch, be sure it's waterproof, go sail, keep the kids involved, as each step is...
The deck is gel/GRP, then about 1/2" of foam, and then a thin GRP layer.
I'd guess you have broken top layer, collapsed the foam, but probably haven't broken thru the bottom layer of GRP. So, I'd cut the damage out, whatever shape you need to minimize the patch. Dig the foam out a little...
You really don't want a port there. But if you put one in the deck up by centerboard or at least 12" from the mast, then the piece of deck you cut out can be used to make a patch that will match your deck. If you use a 2" hole saw to cut out the dent and the new patch it will blend in pretty...
You can buy the old plugs. However the new ones are better as they have O ring seals.
Drill the rivets with a 3/16" bit, they are aluminum.
Check apsltd.com. Your plug has 7/8" hole, most new boats have 1" hole, but newer style 7/8" are available...
Yes, apply some pressure to deck, but not a lot. You want 14" depth when done filling, but do that as last step.
The wood is just filler, as the glass you will use to hold the wood will be doing all the work. So, set the wood in thickened epoxy, then glass over it. Be sure to rough sand...
2 ideas:
I put a light bulb (old incandescent) inside to dry hulls. Be sure it doesn't touch anything or it may burn it. Sunlight on the hull is good also, as it might get to 100+ inside.
Also, that external patch may not have stuck well because epoxy doesn't bond to gelcoat. I can't quite...
Good coverage from Chris Love at Sailgroove here:
http://www.sailgroove.org/videos/coverage/view_video/237207-2010-laser-north-american-championship/343187-chris-barnards-full-rig-preview
They'll have live on the water coverage. Check it out. Looks breezy down there.
Bottom up, in the sun might help.
And you might consider improving the bunks before using that trailer again. Or, just put the dolly on the bunks.
Search on Trailers for ideas.
Take the bottom mast bottom cap off
Insert top of top mast into bottom of bottom mast
Tap gently, and it will "re-square" the stuck cap. Usually when re-squared the cap will slide out with gentle taps.
How big a piece?
I usually fix these "sharkbites" with solid epoxy, if they are no more than 3-4 inches, but I also wouldn't be too concerned about epoxying the old piece back in if it's larger than that. It's often plenty strong enough once re-epoxyed in.
Use clear packing tape to either...
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