Corrosion and spar end for ending

bjmoose

Member
I've searched the forums extensively on the topic of corrosion on spars, rivets and end for ending. I got the best results by searching for the literal word "corrosion."

So, having done that preliminary research I've still got some questions. I'm about to buy an aged laser and some corrosion is evidenced in all the spars, but particularly under the vang attachment points for the boom and lower section. What's my best, cheapest solution?

I could order brand new lower and boom sections complete, but I'm out over 500 bucks :eek:

Everyone seems to universally recommend end-for-end the top section. I will definitely do that.

Can I end-for-end the LOWER mast section? Is that a good idea?

Can I end-for-end the BOOM? Is that a good idea?

Both of these would relieve the put the Vang attachment points on fresh metal, and I know from J/24 sailing that the vang attachment points are the highest stress points on both the mast and boom.

Given the work involved in "end for end" of those sections I rang up APS and asked about ordering "tube only" sections, so I could remount the old hardware myself on a fresh tube, but they didn't have a part number for it. Anyone know if this is available or who I'd order them from?

Could I put a boom reinforcing sleeve inside the lower mast section at the vang attachment point? Upper Mast, Lower Mast and Boom are the same tube diameter and section, right?

-Steve Hartman
 
First thing I would do is remove the fittings to determine exactly how much corrosion is actually taking place, if it's just a case of the hole enlarging enough that a rivet is going to pull out, thru bolt the fittings back on with washers on the inside of the spars. I've got a boom and lower more then 10 yrs old, used only in salt water and not always rinsed at the end of the day that has corrosion, but not enough that thru bolting wasn't the answer

Boom and upper are the same dia tubing. Lower is a bigger dia section.

Vanguard doesn't sell the tubes bare, but you can take an upper (for example your existing upper) and move all the hardware from your existing boom over to the cut down upper to make a new boom if the corrosion is really bad on the boom.. Thats about a $90 cost savings (you can make your own boom sleeve from the extra length cut off from the upper, cut it to the legal sleeve length, cut out a 1/4" slice lengthwise, squeeze it to reduce the dia)
 
It may be worse looking once you remove the fittings, see below. So, I'd consider end for ending the Mast bottom. Especially if there is a lot of wear at the deck.

A boom sleeve should be sufficient, with some thru-bolts as 49208 mentioned.

These unwashed salt water spars can have a lot of internal corrosion as well, as the top and boom can be wet for a long time, after a dunking, even though the top is supposed to be waterproof.

Al
 

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Boom and upper are the same dia tubing. Lower is a bigger dia section.

Vanguard doesn't sell the tubes bare, but you can take an upper (for example your existing upper) and move all the hardware from your existing boom over to the cut down upper to make a new boom if the corrosion is really bad on the boom..

To continue that thought, could I try and get a fairly new catastrophically bent upper spars from someone for cheap, cut it down, and make a new boom section from it?
 
To continue that thought, could I try and get a fairly new catastrophically bent upper spars from someone for cheap, cut it down, and make a new boom section from it?

Yes, you can probably get one for free even. As long as it's bent/broken at the usual place (at or near the collar) so you have enough to cut down to boom size. I recommend getting the boom sleeve assembly. For $27 or so it's worth it to save yourself the hassle of trying to cut something else down and make a sleeve yourself. Just make sure you get a metric measuring tape and carefully follow the measurement diagrams so everything is in the right place.

If the gooseneck fitting on your bottom mast section looks like the one in the photo you might want to replace it with a new one if you go to the trouble of end for ending the spar. The old style ones (like in the photo) that are riveted together can tear apart if they're corroded and worked enough. Seal the old rivet holes with silicone and tape and you're good to go.
 

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