Greetings All; I've been using the Harken Clew Hook with Rooster Strap for a month. Today, after rounding the downwind mark, went back on a starboard tack in about 10 knots of wind, and the clew hook detached. I was able, with some difficulty, to get it back in and finish the race, sadly last. Has anyone experienced this? What do you think caused the failure? Thanks.
Harken Clew Hook Problem
- Thread starter AYETEN
- Start date
Pop-n-Jack
Member
i've had that problem
you can use a shakle
you can use a shakle
computeroman2
Member
The hook may have bent out a little. just grab some pliers and squeeze it back into place.
LooserLu
LooserLu
Hi `Ayeten´
I would advise to have a look to this Website:
http://www.dorsalgear.com/performanceouthaul.htm
There are pic's how to rigg the outhaul-hook "bulletproof".
By the way:
I had a lot of problems with the Harken-hook, too. I used this hook for my older Haaarstick-Laser-Sail (built in the end of the 90ties). At that sail, the sailmaker used very flat stainless-steel-grommets and the hook wasn't be tight enough, because the grommets at the Laser-sails of today have more breadth.
I took a big hammer and tightened the hook, but till then, unfortunaltely I couldn't use that hook for my newer sails. A "rebending" of the hook is nearly impossible, because the stainless-steel quality of this hook is really hard.
So, I think `computeroman2´ is correct and "George of WestCoast", too.
Because I use the old Haarstick for practice and therefore the harken-clew-hook (<- rigged like "Dorsal" do it) and for races a newer Hyde-sail, I would need 2 Harken-hooks. That, my opinion is, is to expensive for the LooserLu. For the newer Hyde-sail (with the grommets that have more breadth) I prefer the way `Pop-n-Jack´ advises: I use a suitable shackle, that usually is used to fix a jibe to its haleyard at a bigger sailingboat. `Pop-n-Jack´'s way to fix the outhaul-grommet to the outhaul-control-line is "bulletproof", too.
Ciao
LooserLu
I would advise to have a look to this Website:
http://www.dorsalgear.com/performanceouthaul.htm
There are pic's how to rigg the outhaul-hook "bulletproof".
By the way:
I had a lot of problems with the Harken-hook, too. I used this hook for my older Haaarstick-Laser-Sail (built in the end of the 90ties). At that sail, the sailmaker used very flat stainless-steel-grommets and the hook wasn't be tight enough, because the grommets at the Laser-sails of today have more breadth.
I took a big hammer and tightened the hook, but till then, unfortunaltely I couldn't use that hook for my newer sails. A "rebending" of the hook is nearly impossible, because the stainless-steel quality of this hook is really hard.
So, I think `computeroman2´ is correct and "George of WestCoast", too.
Because I use the old Haarstick for practice and therefore the harken-clew-hook (<- rigged like "Dorsal" do it) and for races a newer Hyde-sail, I would need 2 Harken-hooks. That, my opinion is, is to expensive for the LooserLu. For the newer Hyde-sail (with the grommets that have more breadth) I prefer the way `Pop-n-Jack´ advises: I use a suitable shackle, that usually is used to fix a jibe to its haleyard at a bigger sailingboat. `Pop-n-Jack´'s way to fix the outhaul-grommet to the outhaul-control-line is "bulletproof", too.
Ciao
LooserLu
49208
Tentmaker
If you post a pic of your current setup, we may be able to spot something amiss in how it is rigged that would cause it to disconnect..AYETEN said:
Harken has quietly changed the hook sometime in the past two years, the length of the open leg is now at least another 2cm longer then the older version. I'm sure you can guess why..... The new hook is the one that is pictured with the the new proposed stainless strap here: http://www.laserforum.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=625&d=1148228180
The following pic shows the method I use, notice the strap is on top of the hook in the clew - this is the older shorter hook. Rigged this way, I have not had it accidently disconnect.
http://www.laserforum.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=403&d=1132029554
Laser76489
Member
I thought that the hook would be a great improvement and I put it on one of my boats. I had so many problems with it that now it sits in my tool box where it will stay. I am using a shackel on one boat and just using a rope tie down on the other. I hope the new boom sleeve will be legal soon and we can get a system that actually works without constant attention being required.
Thanks to all for the advice and various links. I believe I have solved the problem. In the past I have been threading the hook from the port side leaving the hook exiting on starboard and parallel to the boom. Today I tried from starboard to port. This left the hook perpendicular to the boom, a more snug fit. Winds were light today and was just playing around. I'll see how it goes in more wind with competition. Thanks again everyone. This forum is a great place!
Harken hooks seem to work OK if the hook is tied to the boom with line which allows the hook to rotate freely (and hold alignment).
Not sure but when you add a micro block it seems best to use a small shackle rather than forcing the block into the hook 'circle' thru which it is tied to the boom. (again because leverage on the hook can result in a disconnect)
Attachment of shock-cord return rubber (from clew or hook back to the boom cleat or other point forward) can also create leverage and unwanted release because it limits free rotation and alignment of load.
Using the hook in place of a snap-shackle (i.e. from a purchase block directly to the clew as in 89208's second pic and as per Rooster website) seems even more precarious, particularly if the sail flogs on a very loos outhaul setting without sheet or vang tension. The latter seemed to come into vouge when using the velcro straps which also sometimes limit sail/load alignment. If using a strap a snapshackle is probably safer - although if you can keep the hook 'tucked under the starp' as per 89208's second pic it may stay in place.
Hopefully the new JC sleeve will still rotate enough to stop this - although I think they lengthened the hook. I was Surprised they did not consider a simple push or toggle pin but this would require the hole thru the collar top to be higher for the same end point clew positioning.
Seems the Harken hook works well if always free to rotate around the boom - any obstruction just levers the hook out (and complicates rigging).
Not sure but when you add a micro block it seems best to use a small shackle rather than forcing the block into the hook 'circle' thru which it is tied to the boom. (again because leverage on the hook can result in a disconnect)
Attachment of shock-cord return rubber (from clew or hook back to the boom cleat or other point forward) can also create leverage and unwanted release because it limits free rotation and alignment of load.
Using the hook in place of a snap-shackle (i.e. from a purchase block directly to the clew as in 89208's second pic and as per Rooster website) seems even more precarious, particularly if the sail flogs on a very loos outhaul setting without sheet or vang tension. The latter seemed to come into vouge when using the velcro straps which also sometimes limit sail/load alignment. If using a strap a snapshackle is probably safer - although if you can keep the hook 'tucked under the starp' as per 89208's second pic it may stay in place.
Hopefully the new JC sleeve will still rotate enough to stop this - although I think they lengthened the hook. I was Surprised they did not consider a simple push or toggle pin but this would require the hole thru the collar top to be higher for the same end point clew positioning.
Seems the Harken hook works well if always free to rotate around the boom - any obstruction just levers the hook out (and complicates rigging).