Unusual Rudder Repair

Bungo Pete

Member
Hello Everyone:
I thought I'd post some pictures of a rudder repair I did over the winter. A friend of mine hit a rock while coming into the beach, and lost a piece of material where the downhaul line is attached. Rather than trash it, I thought I'd try to fix it using a little home-made "Re-Bar" (a stainless steel screw) and some West System. I also used some dowels as a form and Marine-Tex for fairing. Special thanks to Maestro Schroth for the inspiration.

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Once I was satisfied that this was the best I could get, I epoxied the rod in place w/ hardware store epoxy and drilled some holes in the core so that when I added the West System epoxy there would be more surface area for it to adhere to.

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Next came the dowels and a tongue depressor to create the form. All are covered w/ cling wrap for easy removal.

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This is the repair after the form was removed. I guess it could've been used as is, but I wanted it to look like new.

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Here is the rudder with almost all of the fairing done. Unfortunately, I do not have a pic of the finished product, but after some overall fairing and a few coats of the same Rust-Oleum that the meastro used, the whole rudder looks great and the repair is undetectable. It is currently on the boat and works perfectly.

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I am liking this :), you should send the thread to Merrily and ask her to FAQ it as it is an unusual bit possible a more common area that needs attention then you might think.
 
I look aftermy club's boats and have fitted elastic loops at the end of the hold down line which hook round the cleat. There is enough force to hold the blade down but they will lift if something is hit or the user forgets to release the line. I use about 40mm of 6mm elastic.

No damage in 4 years!
 
Stephen:

Very clever idea - kind of like a shock absorber.

BTW, always wanted to visit Weymouth, Dorset because of its history as one of the Overlord ports and also because I grew up in Weymouth, Massachusetts.
 
There is enough force to hold the blade down but they will lift if something is hit or the user forgets to release the line. I use about 40mm of 6mm elastic.
:):)
 
I look aftermy club's boats and have fitted elastic loops at the end of the hold down line which hook round the cleat. There is enough force to hold the blade down but they will lift if something is hit or the user forgets to release the line. I use about 40mm of 6mm elastic.

No damage in 4 years!


Stephen,

1) I'm pretty sure I understand but would love to see a couple of pics with your setup (I sail inthin water a lot so this might help me out greatly).

2) I've spent some wonderful time in your neck of the woods, having walked the shingle beach at Weymouth....and was made an honorary member of the Weymouth Yacht Club. great group of people!

Thanks again,

Bob in Charlestown RI
 
Here's a pic of the elastic loop as it is with the blade down.

You walked on the wrong end of our beach, the western end is fine sand and frequently ends up in the town during easterly gales.

You also would have found Castle Cove SC friendly and welcoming!

regards
 

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Oh no! Threaded rod in bending! Cardinal sin in mechanical design, at least according to Carroll Smith.

I would have drilled out the blind hole to a slightly larger diameter with a Forstner bit and then lined it with fiberglass to bring it back to the original diameter. That ought to take care of the loads, and the rest could be filled in with epoxy.
 

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